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Capocollo Ibérico de Bellota

January 30, 2017 by AOG Leave a Comment

Capocollo ibérico de bellota. Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes. My previous post on making capocollo used a bit of a fancier cure. Here I had such a fantastic piece of ibérico de bellota meat that I used as simple a cure as possible.

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Curing (2 weeks+): I weighed the meat for this project, and calculated the simple cure that would be used.

capocollo iberico cure ratios

The meat was allowed to stay in the cure for at least 2 weeks. In this case, it stayed in a few months because I got busy, one of the benefits of using an equilibrium cure.


Casing (1 hour+): The meat was taken out of the cure, rinsed and patted dry, cased in a beef bung, and netted.

capocollo casing iberico


Drying (3 months+): This meat was allowed to hang until it lost 30% of its weight.

curing chamber


Tasting: WOW. This was a fantastic piece of meat, with just basic prompting from me, it turned into a fantastic cured meat. This is a winner. I will be doing this one again.

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Perfect to slice up and serve as a snack.

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That’s some beautiful meat right there.

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Love to see that great fat.

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Disclaimer: Meat curing is a hobby that comes with inherent risks. We can all do things to limit this risk by educating ourselves about the process and the utilizing the safest known methods to create our products. This website is for educational purposes only, and all experimentation should be done at each individuals own risk.

Filed Under: Charcuterie Tagged With: capocollo, charcuterie, coppa, cured meat, diy, gabagool, homemade, recipe

Capocollo

January 30, 2017 by AOG Leave a Comment

Coppa. Capocollo. Gabagool. I love how cured meats have so many different and interesting names. The general idea here is that the muscle that runs along the neck of the pork shoulder is dry cured.  This cured meat product is generally called Coppa in northern Italy, and cured in a more northern manner with spices particular to the region. Capocollo is the name in southern Italy, and since “Capo” means the head in Italian, and “collo” means the neck, you can see that the name is descriptor of where the muscle lies. Personally, I find the history of the name gabagool to be the most fascinating. Called gabagool by Italian-Americans, primarily in the state of New Jersey, this is a very cool regionalism. The majority of the immigrants who came to America and settled in New Jersey were from southern Italy and Sicily. Italy has a number of regional dialects/languages, and in the south, there is a pattern of dropping of the last vowel in words and the pronunciation of “c” as “g” (see this fantastic article for more details: http://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/how-capicola-became-gabagool-the-italian-new-jersey-accent-explained). With these linguistic changes, capocollo becomes gabagool. Just because these names are all different, doesn’t mean that any of them are wrong per se, just regional variations.

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Curing (2 weeks+):

First, you will need to harvest the coppa from the shoulder, or have it butchered for you. In this post, I will be using a beautiful piece of meat from a Mangalitsa pig. These are an Old World breed pig that are indigenous to Hungary. They are well known for the quality and quantity of fat that they have, which makes them a perfect breed to use in meat curing.

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First, I weighed the meat and put the value into my curing spreadsheet.

capocollo cure ratio

All of the cure ingredients were weighed.

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They were then mixed, and spread onto the meat.

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The meat was vacuum sealed with the cure ingredients and allowed to cure in the fridge for 2 weeks.

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Casing (1 hour+):

After sitting in the cure for 2 weeks, the meat was rinsed off and patted dry. For this meat, I wanted to leave a coating of toasted fennel and peperoncini around the outside. I mixed these together in a bowl first.

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Then, I coated the meat with the spices.

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I cased this in a beef bung. In order to do this, I soaked the beef bung in warm water for about an hour before I started.

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Then I slowly stuffed the meat into the beef bung casing.

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This was finally netted and weighed.

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Drying (3 months+): The meat was allowed to hang in the curing chamber for 3 months, and the weight loss was tracked over time.

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Over time, there was increased beneficial mold growth and weight loss, avoiding areas with high concentration of peperoncini.

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At around 3 months, it reached 30% weight loss, and was pulled from the chamber.

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Tasting: When this meat was sliced it looked beautiful! The flavor was a bit over powering at first, but after it was allowed to equalize in the fridge under vacuum seal for a few more months, it was outstanding!

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Disclaimer: Meat curing is a hobby that comes with inherent risks. We can all do things to limit this risk by educating ourselves about the process and the utilizing the safest known methods to create our products. This website is for educational purposes only, and all experimentation should be done at each individuals own risk.

Filed Under: Charcuterie Tagged With: capocollo, charcuterie, coppa, cured meat, diy, gabagool, homemade

Lomo Ibérico de Bellota

January 25, 2017 by AOG 4 Comments

Lomo ibérico de bellota. The cousin cured meat to the world famous jamón ibérico de bellota. This was a real fun one to make. I was able to get some raw ibérico de bellota pork loin and cure it to make the Spanish style lomo ibérico de bellota. The quality of this meat was evident from the start; even the raw meat itself smelled amazing. After some time in the cure and curing chamber, the result was a fantastic quality cured meat product. If you can get your hands on some raw ibérico de bellota meat to cure, I definitely suggest it.

lomo iberico


Curing (3+ weeks):

First, the ibérico de bellota pork loin was weighed and put into a simple cure.

lomo long iberico

lomo cure ratios

lomo in cure


Casing (1 hour):

After spending some time in the cure (3 months, whoops!), the meat was taken out, rinsed, patted dry, and cased in a beef bung, and netted.

lomo iberico


Drying (6+weeks):

The lomo stayed in the curing chamber until it lost ~30% of its weight. It was pulled and sliced.

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WOW. The taste of this lomo ibérico de bellota is fantastic. This one is definitely a keeper.

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Disclaimer: Meat curing is a hobby that comes with inherent risks. We can all do things to limit this risk by educating ourselves about the process and the utilizing the safest known methods to create our products. This website is for educational purposes only, and all experimentation should be done at each individuals own risk.

Filed Under: Charcuterie Tagged With: charcuterie, cured meat, diy, ibérico, ibérico de bellota, lomo, Lomo ibérico de bellota, lonza

Lonza

January 24, 2017 by AOG Leave a Comment

Lomo. Lonza. Lonzino. Not a magical spell or the conjugation of a foreign word, but some of the different names that cured pork loin goes by. In this post, I will discuss a basic lonza that I have cured with your regular, run of the mill pork loin from Costco. I used an interesting spice mix which I have used before and really come to like for this type of product. One of the cool things about meat curing is that fantastic starting products yield fantastic end products, but adequate starting predicts still yield great final products. I am a huge fan of buying great quality, responsibly raised meat from local farmers that you know. However, this isn’t always an option, and Costco still has pretty good quality meat that is great for meat curing experiments.


Curing (3+ weeks):

The pork loin was rinsed and dried before the cure was added. It was allowed to cure for 4 weeks in the fridge.

lonza


Casing (1 hour):

The cured pork loin was taken out of the cure after about a month. It was rinsed off and patted dry. It was then cased in a beef bung casing.

cased lomo

After netting, it was hung in the curing chamber and allowed to dry.

curing chamber


Drying (3+ months):

The lonza was allowed to hang in the curing chamber for around 3 months, losing 30% of its total weight.

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At this point, it was removed from the chamber, the casing was removed, and it was sliced open to taste.


Tasting:

Ahh. Fantastic.

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There is something about dry curing meat that really brings out the best flavors in the meat. Even this meat, from such a common source, is great after its time spent curing and drying. It looks like traditional lonza or lomo meat does, and tastes pretty good. I look forward to making many sandwiches and snacks with this meat.

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Disclaimer: Meat curing is a hobby that comes with inherent risks. We can all do things to limit this risk by educating ourselves about the process and the utilizing the safest known methods to create our products. This website is for educational purposes only, and all experimentation should be done at each individuals own risk.

Filed Under: Charcuterie Tagged With: charcuterie, cured meat, diy, homemade, lomo, lonza, recipe

Home-cured Bacon

January 19, 2017 by AOG Leave a Comment

Everybody loves bacon these days. Bacon is as hip and cool as mustaches and kale apparently are. There is bacon in Bloody Mary’s, bacon flavored chap-stick, even bacon made wallets. Now, I am all for the propagation of bacon love, but I do have a serious bone to pick with what a lot of these so called bacon lovers are eating; cardboard, bone-dry, lean strips of brown meat with a thin strip of fat. Sad, pathetic, little bacon strips. Not all pork belly is born equal, and not all bacon is the same. I believe that if you’re going to eat something as delicious and maybe not so healthy for you as bacon, you should do it in moderation, and go all in, eating the best, most delicious bacon you can get your hands on. And let’s face facts folks; well-smoked, thick cut, meaty flavor, marbled bacon is rare. And that’s why I’m writing this, and presumably, why you’re here. Making your own bacon is one way to make sure that you are really getting all the enjoyment that you can out of that sodium/fat bullet to your heart. Here, I will discuss my process of making bacon. One of the most important aspects of any meat curing process is obtaining good quality meat from animals that have been raised well. I was fortunate enough to pick up this meat from Ham Sweet Farm, a farm that is committed to raising quality, happy animals. The proof is in the bacon.

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Curing (2+ weeks):

The first step is to take a pork belly and cure it in a cure mixture of salt and spices. A lot of people use excess curing for bacon, but I really suggest using equilibrium curing. It results in a much more controlled end product and allows for life to get in the way with no adverse effect on your product. Depending on the thickness of your bacon, it can usually take around 1-3 weeks for the cure to penetrate the meat. I usually put my meat in vacuum sealed bag with the cure in the fridge during this part of the process. There are no downsides to leaving the meat in the cure for a bit longer when you use an equilibrium cure, which is good for me, because I left this meat in the cure for almost 2 months.

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I used two different cures for this bacon, a more traditional bacon cure and a maple syrup cure.

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Smoking (4+hours)

After the pork belly has been in the cure for an appropriate amount of time, it’s time to smoke it. Some people hot smoke bacon, but I feel like that really ruins the complex flavors you can create in bacon, so I cold smoke my bacon. In cold smoking, you aim to keep the temperature below 90F/32C. This allows for the meat to take on a smoked flavor, without the meat actually cooking.

First, take the pork belly out of the cure, rinse it off in cold water, and dry it off.

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Then, place it in a cold smoking set up.

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You can leave it in the smoke for as long as you would like, depending on your flavor preferences. I like the 4-5 hour time span, which allows for a nice complex smoky flavor without being too overpowering.


Equalizing (Overnight):

After the pork belly has been smoked, it is now bacon! However, if you try to slice it and eat it right away, you may find that it isn’t exactly to your taste. You’ll want to let it rest and equalize overnight in the refrigerator so that the smoke flavor can spread throughout the meat.

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The next day, you can take the bacon out of the fridge and start to fry it up!

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After tasting some, I generally move the whole piece of bacon to the freezer and let it freeze, before using a meat slicer to thick slice it into pieces.

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bacon 2

These are then stored in a vacuum sealed bag in the freezer. Great for Sunday morning breakfasts or gifts for family and friends!

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Disclaimer: Meat curing is a hobby that comes with inherent risks. We can all do things to limit this risk by educating ourselves about the process and the utilizing the safest known methods to create our products. This website is for educational purposes only, and all experimentation should be done at each individuals own risk.

Filed Under: Charcuterie Tagged With: bacon, charcuterie, cured meat, diy, food, home-cured

Duck Salami

March 14, 2016 by AOG 13 Comments

Duck salami, or salami d’anatra, is a project that I had been wanting to tackle for a while. Duck salami itself isn’t easy to find commercially, and even the duck salami that is found in stores and restaurants tends to use pork fat. I was looking to create a pork free product, for those who keep kosher or halal, so I debated a number of different sources for fat, before deciding to do a 100% duck salami.

I love duck fat, so the taste of it was a huge pro for me. I also like the way that duck fat melts in your mouth, another pro. My main concern about using duck fat in duck salami was working with the duck fat at room temperature. I have seen a few different values given for the slip melting point of duck fat, but the most consistent value seems to be around 77F/25C. I made sure to do all of my processes at around 70F/21C, worked fast, and I utilized the freezer to make sure everything stayed cold.


Planning Phase:

I bought 4 duck breasts to use for this project. Before I started, I put them in the freezer for an hour or so to get them nice and cold. I cut the fat away from the meat, and I weighed the meat and the fat separately. Ideally there would be a 70% meat to 30% fat ratio, mine was close enough to that, so I just worked with what I had. I decided to try two different cures, one spicy using calabrese peperconcini and one in the style of duck l’orange.

Below are the cure ratios I used:

image image(1)I weighed everything necessary for the cure, and mixed it altogether (with the exception of the starter culture).


Meat Cubing Phase:

After I weighed all of the meat, fat, and cure spices, I was ready to move on. I cubed both the fat and the meat and kept them separate.

In this case, I mixed the cure with the cubed meat. I don’t always do this; sometimes I wait to mix the cure with the ground meat. I haven’t assessed which method is best yet, and both have worked for me.


Meat Grinding Phase:

After I cubed the meat, I put it back in the freezer to let it get colder again. After an hour or so, I was ready to grind the meat. I had decided to use a course ground on the duck meat, and hand cut the duck fat in order to avoid smearing.

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I ran the meat through the meat grinder, and collected it into a bowl at the end. At this point, I had course ground duck meat and hand cut fat.

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I mixed this with the fat that was hand cut. I also dissolved the starter culture in a minimal amount of water and mixed it with the ground meat, hand cut fat, and spice cure.

If you are in need of a break, this is a good point to stop. You can freeze the mixture overnight, and get started again if the morning if need be.


Meat Stuffing Phase:

Once you have your ground meat/fat/cure/spice mixture it is time to stuff it into casings. I used to use the grinder to stuff my salami, but I have since moved to a dedicated stuffer and it is awesome.

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I only had one wide diameter casing left, and a bunch of small ones. I decided to make the duck l’orange into a larger duck salame, and the spicy calabrese duck salami into numerous smaller duck salami. I soaked the casings to get them ready to use.

I made sure to mix the ingredients together thoroughly. I put the mixture into the stuffer, and got out as much air as possible.

At this point, I picked the casing, tied off one end, and gathered the rest of the casing, pushing it down around the stuffing horn.

I used one hand to steady the casing around the stuffing horn, and another to crank the stuffer. When the salami reached my desired size, I twisted the casing and used butcher string to keep the separation.image(140)

I continued this process until I finished stuffing all of the duck salami mixture. I used a toothpick, to puncture any air holes in the salami at this point.


Fermentation Phase:

Temperature: 75ᵒF/23-24C

Humidity: 80-90% RH (strain dependent)

Time: 48-72 hours (until pH drops to at least 5.3)

Once all the salami was stuffed into casings, it was time to allow the meat to ferment. This is the stage I was most worried about when thinking about using duck fat. Luckily, the starter culture I was using had a relatively low fermentation temperature, and I made sure the temperature didn’t rise about 75 F/23-24C in the fermentation chamber.

At this point, I sprayed the salami with Bactoferm 600, a commercially available form of penicillium nalgiovense.

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I have attempted to track the fermentation stage using pH monitoring before, but I don’t always do that. This time, I tracked the fermentation stage just by time. After 3 days, I moved on to the drying phase.


Drying Phase:

Temperature: 54F/12C

Humidity: 70% RH

For the drying phase, I set the chamber to its usual settings (55F/70-80% RH). The salami was allowed to dry over time. Usually I allow my salami to go to 40% weight loss, but these plateaued at around 35% weight loss. I attribute this to the higher fat content of these salami. Regardless, they were pulled at around 35% weight loss.

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Duck Salami Weight Loss


Initial Tasting Phase:

After the duck salami weight loss plateaued, I pulled them from the chamber.

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After I pulled the duck salami, I removed the casing, and wiped them down with white vinegar. I patted them dry after this.

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I sliced them open. Wow.

The spicy calabrese duck salami was a kick in the mouth. Flavorful and spicy. They were slightly over powering due to the strong heat from the calabrese pepperoncini, but if it’s not spicy, you’re not doing your job right?

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The salame duck l’orange was amazing. The complex flavors really lent themselves well to the flavor of the duck.

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After one last look…

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I took the salami and vacuum sealed them, before putting them in the fridge for long term storage.

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Disclaimer: Meat curing is a hobby that comes with inherent risks. We can all do things to limit this risk by educating ourselves about the process and the utilizing the safest known methods to create our products. This website is for educational purposes only, and all experimentation should be done at each individuals own risk.

 

Filed Under: Charcuterie Tagged With: charcuterie, cured meats, diy, duck, duck salami, halal, homemade, kosher, salami, salami d'anatra

Non-Pork Fat Options for Salami

March 9, 2016 by AOG 1 Comment


Ratings of the Best Non-Pork Fat Options for Salami:

  1. Brisket (cow) Fat: Best option, low melting point, palatable taste
  2. Duck Fat: Second best option, harder to work with due to room temperature melting point, great taste
  3. Lamb/Goat/Cow Fat: Easy to access, may have strong flavor, higher melting point
  4. Fat Replacer: Fine for increasing fat mouth feel, no chunks of fat, doesn’t really cut it
  5. Lamb tail fat: Hard to find, personally have never used, seems promising

Overview:

Most salami that we see in the stores and restaurants today are made out of pork meat and fat. Even salami that are made from different animal meat sources often use pork fat due to its beneficial properties. It has a great flavor and a lower slip melting point (the way that the melting point of a waxy solid, such as a fat, is measured and reported) than most other animal fat, although not so low that it becomes a liquid on the lower end of room temperature. This means it maintains its integrity when in the salami, but will melt in your mouth when you take a bite. Basically, creating perfection.

However, some people choose not to eat pork. Having friends and family who are pork free, I have done a lot of research into finding pork free charcuterie recipes. For the most part, this hasn’t been too hard. There are many pork free whole muscle cure alternatives. When I turned my attention to salami though, I faced a conundrum. Most recipes that use non-pork meat still use pork fat because of its aforementioned qualities. I found historical evidence of halal salami producers using lamb tail fat, but it is notoriously difficult to find in most areas of the United States. Some stores sell “fat replacer” to help with the mouth feel that fat produces, but is not the same as having real chunks of fat in your salami.As a pork eater myself, I cannot deny the pleasure of pork fat, as it melts in your mouth, creating sinful bliss. I was determined to find a way to replicate this so that my non-pork eating friends could enjoy the same luxury as me.

As a side note, I discuss these fat options in terms of salami because that is what I have focused on making. It can also apply to sausage and other charcuterie products.


Background:

As a chemist by training, my initial instinct where to look into the chemical composition of the fat of different animals compared to pork. The slip melting point will vary based on the ratio of different fatty acids in the fat itself, therefore it is important to know what types of fatty acids each fat you are considering uses has, and in what ratios.

There are saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. Saturated fatty acids tend to “stack” better together, and are therefore are harder to “pull apart”, and tend to have a higher melting point. Unsaturated fatty acids have double bonds which introduce a kink into the molecule. This means they cannot stack as well, are easier to “pull apart”, and therefore have a lower melting point.

Stearic Acid is an example of a saturated fatty acid:

800px-Stearic_acid.svg

Oleic Acid is an example of an unsaturated fatty acid:

Oleic-acid-based-on-xtal-1997-2D-skeletal

As you can probably see from their structure, saturated fats like stearic acid have no problem stacking together. This makes them harder to pull apart, as discussed above. Whereas, from the structure of oleic acid, you can see that there are kinks on the molecular structure that make it less stackable, and therefore make it easier to pull apart. (These terms are not 100% scientifically accurate but are being used to illustrate the concept, feel free to read the source material for a more scientific discussion of the forces that hold these molecules together.)

In general, animal fats have a slip melting point between 22-40 C/71-104 F. It turns out, the ratio of unsaturated to saturated fatty acids plays a very important role in creating these slip melting points.

The composition of the fats from different animals varies based on their species, their diet, their genetics, and the area that the fat is taken from. These are all important factors that one must consider when looking at fat sources. For example, some animals are purposely fed a particular feed in order to lower their fat slip melting point. Other animals have been engineered to have increased marbling with lower slip melting points of that fat.

So, what does this have to do with our quest for a non-pork fat source for salami? A lot, actually. In general, pig fat tends to have a slip melting point around 30C, which varies based on feed, genetics, and cut. Cow fat, the most commonly available substitute, has an average slip melting point of 40C. This difference is enough to change that melt in your mouth feel that well cured pork products succeed in producing.

MP of fats


Brisket (cow) Fat:

Interestingly, fat from the brisket cut of a cow has a very unique composition. It is high in unsaturated fats like oleic acid, and low in saturated fats like stearic acid. This means that the fat from the brisket area of a cow has a much lower melting point than cow fat in general; in fact it averages around 25 C. This is a slip melting point as low as most pork fat, making brisket fat an ideal substitute for pork fat.

slip melting points cow cutsThe data shows that the fat from areas that have lower concentrations of saturated fats have a lower slip melting points. Brisket fat has fewer saturated fatty acids, and therefore a lower slip melting point, as illustrated in the following figure:

slip melting points cow cuts scatterplot

Since the way that animals are raised, their genetics, and their feed play such an important role in the overall taste of the fat, I would love to see more research looking at these factors as well. One example of ongoing research is the genetic engineering of Japanese black cattle (think Waygu or Kobe beef) which have been engineered to have higher ratios of unsaturated fatty acids, better marbling, and a lower slip melting point. In addition, the distinctive taste of jamón iberico de bellota fat is created by a combination of genetics, European acorn feed, and the way the pigs are raised. Farmers in the United States (and abroad I am sure as well) are doing a lot to understand how important these factors are for their pigs, and are doing really good work ensuring that they raise pigs that not only have higher ratios of unsaturated fatty acids but great marbling and taste. All of these factors are important in creating delicious cured meat products.

Overall, there is some really interesting research being done on this topic, and for those who are scientifically minded I suggest taking a look into the literature. In the references below (where the figures have come from), I have referenced two pamphlets that have been written for the general public consumption, which I have found very fascinating. They have their own references page, where more information on individual studies can be found.


Duck Fat:

Duck fat is my second recommendation for fat to use in salami. It is a particularly palatable fat, but does have a slip melting point that is around room temperature, some sources saying that it is around 77F/25 C. This can make working with it tricky. However, as long as you keep your temperatures low and work fast, there is no reason it can’t be used. In addition, if you are working with an old world culture, many suggest a lower fermentation temperature anyway. I found that using a fermentation temperature of 75F/23-24C worked perfectly for duck fat salami.

I should mention here, that by duck fat, I mean actual fat that has been taken off of a duck, not rendered duck fat like you can buy at the supermarket. Rendered duck fat does not have the collagenous matrix that raw duck fat from the animal has, and won’t hold up nearly as well in salami making. I will be posting the recipe of an all duck salami that I have made with duck fat, in order to give more insight into how this process can go smoothly and create a delicious final product.


Lamb/Goat/Cow Fat:

I assume that if you are making non-pork salami, you probably have a piece of meat that has both non-pork meat and fat. Using this fat is my third favorite option. The benefits are that the fat is on hand already. With this method, you make sure that nothing goes to waste.

One aspect of using this fat, which may be a benefit or a drawback (depending on your opinion) is that fat tends to store a lot of the flavor of the animal. Adding lamb or goat fat may add a stronger flavor to the salami than desired. Then again, that may be the exact desired outcome.

The big downside is the texture. The slip melting point of most commercially available animals, in most cuts, will be higher. This means the salami will not “melt in your mouth” in the same way as a pork salami will. However, talk to farmers, see how they treat and feed their animals. You may be able to find animals that have fat that is more amenable to your uses. Just because something commercially available may not be perfect, doesn’t mean the right option isn’t out there if you do your research and talk to the right people.


Fat Replacer:

Fat replacer is a commercially available product that is added to salami to create the mouth feel of fat without actual fat. It is made of cellulose, xanthum, and konjac. All of these are used to “mimic” the texture of fat. There are claims that it is good for “healthy” salami. I personally doubt any health claims the company may make, but if you are trying to make a pork free (or even vegetarian) salami and want to use this as a substitute, it’s not awful. That being said, I would use it in conjunction with actual fat as mentioned above.


Lamb Tail Fat:

The elusive lamb tail fat. As discussed above, many factors play a role in the slip melting point of fat. Of particular importance are the genetics of the animal, its feed, and the area you are taking the fat from. This is especially true for lamb tail fat. While most lamb have thin tails these days, certain breeds have fat tails. The fat in these tails, due to physiological reasons, has a lower slip melting point. As discussed above in the case of brisket cow fat, this creates that “melt in the mouth” taste that is so appealing.

I cannot say too much more about this, since I have never used it myself. I would love to try it in the future however. It seems to be used in many traditional halal products, so if you can get your hands on it and try it, I would imagine that it would be worth it.

People who know way more about lamb tail fat than me have written blog posts on it that are worth reading:

http://www.jennifermclagan.com/fat-tailed-lamb

http://www.anissas.com/those-fat-tails/


Summary:

All in all, these are some good non-pork alternatives to fat for salami or sausage making. I did some research, stumbled upon some things, and tried them out. This is by no means an extensive list, nor will it work for everyone. I suggest everyone to do as much research as they can and come to their own conclusions. I welcome any feedback from people who make non pork salami and any methods they have found to be useful.


References:

http://www.beefissuesquarterly.com/CMDocs/BeefResearch/PE_White_%20Papers/Marbling%20-%20Management%20of%20cattle%20to%20maximize%20the%20deposition%20of%20intramuscular%20adipose%20tissue.pdf

http://animalscience.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2012/04/Handout-3-Melting-Points-of-Animal-Fats1.pdf

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stearic_acid

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oleic_acid

Filed Under: Science Tagged With: brisket fat, charcuterie, cured meat, duck fat, fat, fat replacer, halal, kosher, lamb tail fat, pork-free, salami, science

Modern Mosciame

March 6, 2016 by AOG Leave a Comment

Mosciame. Mojama. Muxama. That seductive, yet elusive charcuterie product that I have been trying so hard to recreate. The taste of which transports you to sunlight days, with sea salt breezes, where nothing ever seems to be urgent, pressing, or stressful. The pace of modern day life seems to be slowed down by simply a taste of this delicious cured product. Obviously, once the idea of recreating this transportive taste took hold of me, I couldn’t rest until it was done satisfactorily. And finally, I can rest, happy with the success of the process that I will detail here.

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In this post, I will detail my second attempt at making modern style mosciame. You can read about my first attempt at making modern mosciame here. After my first attempt at making modern style mosciame yielded such a strong flavored product, I decided to try to make one that was milder and had more universal appeal. In order to do this, I limited steps that I thought may have increased its strong and earthy flavor. I didn’t use a starter culture in the cure, I used cheesecloth instead of a beef bung for casing, I lowered my RH to 70%, and my temperature to 50 F in order to stimulate more rapid weight loss and to discourage excessive mold growth.


Curing (2 weeks):

The meat was cured using an equilibrium cure for 2 weeks in the normal refrigerator.

Mosciame cure ratio with accurate ratios

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After this point, the cure was rinsed off and it was patted dry.

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Casing (1 hour):

The tuna was then cased using cheesecloth.

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Drying (1 month+, until 30% of weight is lost):

Temperature: 50F/10C, Humidity: 70% RH

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It was hung in the curing chamber in order to dry.

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After 30 days, it had lost 30% of its weight and was pulled from the curing chamber.

Mosciame weight loss over time new trialIMG_1188


Tasting:

The mosciame was taken out of its casing, scrubbed clean with white vinegar, and patted dry.

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I was excited to try this, and boy oh boy, I was not disappointed.

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This mosciame has the complex umami flavor you’d expect of aged tuna, without some of the stronger more yeasty overtones that the first modern mosciame trial had. It seems like one or more of the changes that I made in my protocol made this process work a bit more traditionally and created a product with more universal appeal.

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Sliced thin with my cuchillo jamonero, or my jamón carving knife, this product is amazing.

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It is always nice when one of your experiments works! While I will still sneak slices of my first modern mosciame trial for myself as a treat, I have a feeling that I will be slicing this second modern mosciame product more often for friends and family.

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Stored under vacuum seal for future uses!

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Disclaimer: Curing fish is a hobby that comes with inherent risks. We can all do things to limit this risk by educating ourselves about the process and the utilizing the safest known methods to create our products. This website is for educational purposes only, and all experimentation should be done at each individuals own risk.

Filed Under: Charcuterie Tagged With: atum, atún, charcuterie, diy, homemade, mojama, mosciame, muxama, tonno, tuna

Traditional Modern Mosciame

March 6, 2016 by AOG 2 Comments

There are traditional and more modern ways to create charcuterie products. Traditional methods may rely on the use of caves or more natural spaces that have the ideal humidity and temperature in order to allow the cured products to dry over time. Modern methods tend to use curing chambers to recreate these nature environments. You can see more about curing chamber instructions here and here.

I have previously discussed the history behind making mosciame and my first attempt at doing it in a curing chamber here. I have since perfected this method, as described here.

Here, I will discuss what I call the traditional modern method. Today, amidst concerns of pollution, instead of leaving their meat to air dry outside, some Italians use an oven at around 77-86 F for 4-6 hours to dry the meat. It can be pressed into a uniform shape if desired, and can be stored in olive oil.

I decided to try this method with a beautiful piece of sushi grade tuna.

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Curing (48 hours):

I cut the piece of tuna in half, and placed them in two different excess cures; simple and soy maple.

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I allowed the fish to cure for 48 hours while being pressed.

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After 48 hours, I removed it from the cure and rinsed it off.

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Drying (7 hours):

Temperature: 35C/95F

I placed it in the dehydrator at 35C for 7 hours.

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After this time, the mosciame lost ~30% of its initial weight.

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I removed it from the dehydrator and brushed it with olive oil.

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Tasting:

I sliced it thin, and served it two ways:

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It was awesome. Way better than I expected from a dehydrator method. I am a fan of the slow curing process, but this definitely created a delicious final product that is worth trying if you don’t have access to a curing chamber or want something a bit quicker.

Stored in a vacuum sealed bag, it awaits more tastings in the future.

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Disclaimer: Curing fish is a hobby that comes with inherent risks. We can all do things to limit this risk by educating ourselves about the process and the utilizing the safest known methods to create our products. This website is for educational purposes only, and all experimentation should be done at each individuals own risk.

Filed Under: Charcuterie Tagged With: charcuterie, cured meat, diy, homemade, mojama, mosciame, tonno, tuna, tuna prosciutto

Winter Cured Lamb Prosciutto

February 28, 2016 by AOG 8 Comments

As discussed previously, there are a number of ways to make lamb prosciutto. Because lamb prosciutto is made with the leg of a lamb, it has a bone running through it. You can cure the lamb prosciutto with the bone in, or take it out. If you take out the bone, you can either cure the lamb prosciutto in two separate pieces or tie it together tightly to try and get rid of any air pockets from where the bone used to be. I have tried both of these methods which you can see at the following links:

  • Lamb Prosciutto (cured in two separate pieces)
  • Lamb Prosciutto (tied together as a roast, and cured)

I personally liked curing the lamb prosciutto in two pieces. Therefore, I cured my most recent lamb prosciutto in two pieces with two different winter spice cures.

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Curing (3 weeks):

I used two different spice cures for the two pieces of lamb prosciutto; a traditional lamb cure and a winter spice lamb cure.

lamb prosciutto cure ratios traditional winter lamb prosciutto cure spiced lamb winter 1

I allowed the leg of lamb to cure in their spice cures for 3 weeks under vacuum seal.

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Casing (1 hour):

I used beef bung casing to case the meat, and used butcher netting to tie it up and get it ready to hang. After this, I used a toothpick to puncture any air holes that may have been evident and could harbor the growth of bad bacteria.Th meat was weighed, and was ready to go into the curing chamber.

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Drying (1 month+, until 30% of weight is lost):

Temperature: 54F/12C, Humidity: 70-80% RH

After being cased, the lamb prosciutto was put directly into the curing chamber to join the other meats that were hanging.

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The meat was allowed to lose ~30% of its initial weight, and was pulled from the chamber.

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Tasting:

Lamb prosciutto is one of my favorite cured meats. The traditional lamb prosciutto was done first. The first slices into it were heavenly.

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Later, when both of these were ready, I did a taste test with what I had left of my Arthur Ave lamb prosciutto.

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Great alone, or as I always like to say…meats that cure together, stay together.

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Ahhhh….beef bresaola, lamb prosciutto, lamb salami, and duck salami. All out for a day of fun.

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Disclaimer: Meat curing is a hobby that comes with inherent risks. We can all do things to limit this risk by educating ourselves about the process and the utilizing the safest known methods to create our products. This website is for educational purposes only, and all experimentation should be done at each individuals own risk.

 

Filed Under: Charcuterie Tagged With: charcuterie, cured meat, diy, lamb, lamb prosciutto

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